Lock Repair in Boca Raton

Repair first, replace when it makes sense

A lock is a small machine with springs, pins, a latch and a set of screws, and like any machine it wears in predictable ways. The good news is that many of those ways are fixable. A loose screw, a dry cylinder, a misaligned strike or a worn spring can be corrected without touching the rest of the lock. Replacing a lock that only needs adjustment wastes money and sometimes introduces new problems, such as keys that no longer match your other locks.

On the other side, repairing a lock that is truly worn out can be a false economy. A lock with a cylinder that has worn so far that keys barely work, a body that is cracked or corroded, or a design that is known to be weak is a poor candidate for repair. A good technician will tell you which side of the line your lock is on, and will explain why. If you are not given a reason, ask for one.

Sticking and hard-to-turn keys

A key that sticks going in, turns with effort or must be wiggled is giving you a warning. The cause may be dirt and old lubricant in the cylinder, worn key edges, a bent key, a worn cylinder or a bolt that is rubbing against the strike. In coastal Palm Beach County, salt and humidity add corrosion to the mix, and a lock that has been outside for years may simply be dry and gritty inside.

Do not keep forcing a stiff key. Keys are brass or nickel silver and will snap under pressure, leaving a piece inside the lock. Try the key with the door open. If the key turns freely with the door open and sticks when the door is closed, the problem is almost certainly alignment of the bolt and strike, and the fix is at the door and frame, not inside the cylinder. A technician can clean, lubricate with the right product, and realign, and may suggest a fresh key cut from the original if the old key is worn.

• Test the key with the door open to separate lock faults from alignment faults.
• Do not force a stiff key. It can snap in the cylinder.
• Avoid oil-based sprays that gum up pins and attract dust.
• Bring the original key, not a copy of a copy, to the visit.
• Mention any recent weather or door adjustments.

Loose, wobbly and rattling hardware

A handle that wobbles, a deadbolt that spins in the door or a thumb turn that feels loose is almost always a fastener problem. The screws that hold the two halves of the lock together can work loose with daily use, and the screws that hold a handle to its base can strip the wood or the threads. Tightening them may be enough, but if the holes are stripped, the fix is more careful: longer screws, a repair insert, or a replacement plate.

A loose lock is also a security problem, because a bolt that can move in the door is a bolt that can be pulled out. If a handle has come off completely, the internal spindle and latch are exposed. Our page on loose or wobbly door locks covers causes in more detail. Tell the technician when the looseness started, whether the door was slammed or forced, and whether any parts are missing.

Misaligned latches and strike plates

Doors move. Wood swells in humid weather, hinges loosen, houses settle, and a door that closed perfectly last year can now rub or miss the strike. When a latch or bolt does not line up with the hole in the strike, the door may not close fully, the key may be hard to turn, and the bolt may only partly engage. That is both an annoyance and a security weakness, since a half-engaged bolt gives little protection.

The repair may be as simple as tightening hinge screws or as involved as adjusting the strike, filing the opening, or moving the strike plate. Sometimes the door itself needs planing or the hinges need shims. A technician will observe how the door closes, check the gap along the frame, and trace where the latch contacts the strike. A thin streak of marker or chalk on the latch can show exactly where it hits. The repair aims to let the door close without a shove and the bolt to throw without pushing.

Worn cylinders and keys that no longer fit

A cylinder contains small pins that rise to meet the cuts on a key. Over years of use, both keys and pins wear. A key that has been copied from a copy loses accuracy at each step, and a worn pin may let the wrong key work or the right key fail. If a key works only when pulled back slightly or held at an angle, the cylinder or key is worn.

Often the repair is a new key cut from the original, or a new cylinder in the existing lock body. Replacing just the cylinder is a common middle path, because it refreshes the working part without changing the whole lock. It also gives the chance to rekey so that old keys no longer work. Our guide on how rekeying works explains the process and what it changes.

Corrosion, salt air and humidity

Boca Raton's salt air is hard on metal, and exterior locks pay for it. Corrosion can seize a cylinder, freeze a latch, rust a spring or pit a finish until it looks bad. A lock that has been neglected for years may be beyond cleaning. A lock that has simply become stiff may respond to cleaning and proper lubrication, especially a dry graphite or silicone-based lubricant suited to locks.

Avoid general purpose spray oils inside cylinders, because they attract dust and can form a sludge when the weather turns hot and wet. A technician may remove the cylinder, clean it, check the pins and springs, and reinstall it. If corrosion has gone too far, replacement with a more resistant model is sensible. Our page on locks corroded by salt air goes through the choices, and our guide to caring for locks in salt air offers a routine to prevent a repeat.

Safe things to try before you call

A few simple checks are safe for anyone. Tighten visible screws on the handle and the edge plate gently with the right size screwdriver. Wipe the key and look for bent or chipped edges. Try the spare key if you have one, because if the spare works well and the main key does not, the main key is the problem. Check hinge screws for looseness and tighten them if they spin freely. Watch how the door closes and where the latch meets the strike.

Do not take the lock body apart if you are not experienced, because springs and small parts can fly out and lose their order. Do not use heavy force on a stiff lock. Do not pour oil into a cylinder. Do not try to drill or pry a stuck bolt. If you have a smart or electronic lock, do not open the case or apply sprays, because the electronics can be damaged. A call is better than a bigger problem.

1. Tighten visible handle and plate screws gently.
2. Compare your main key with a spare, if you have one.
3. Tighten loose hinge screws.
4. Watch where the latch meets the strike as the door closes.
5. Stop and call if the lock still binds or the key will not turn.

How a technician decides between repair and replacement

A technician looks at the lock's condition, its design, its age and what the problem is. A well-made lock with a minor fault is worth repairing. A lock with a design flaw, widespread corrosion, a cracked body, or parts that are no longer available is better replaced. If the lock is a lower grade than the door needs, an upgrade may be sensible, since repairing a weak lock keeps it weak.

The technician also considers what you want. If your goal is to keep matching keys across several doors, a cylinder repair or rekey may preserve that. If you are worried about lost keys, rekeying or replacement with a restricted keyway may be the better choice. A good technician offers options and explains their trade-offs, and does not push the most expensive one. Ask what repair involves, how long it is expected to last, and what could go wrong.

Repair for different lock types

Knob and lever sets are the simplest to repair, and a worn latch or spring can often be replaced. Deadbolts are repaired by cleaning, adjusting the bolt and strike, replacing the cylinder or fixing the thumb turn. Mortise locks, found in older homes and commercial doors, have many internal parts and can often be rebuilt. Sliding door locks and patio latches are a common source of problems and often need new hardware because replacement parts are inexpensive relative to repair time.

Electronic and smart locks need a different approach. Often the mechanical parts can be repaired while the electronics are replaced as a unit. Garage entry doors, storm doors and screen doors have their own latches that suffer from weather. Mailboxes, cabinets and file drawers use small cylinders that are quickly repaired or replaced. Tell the dispatcher what kind of lock it is, and describe the symptom as precisely as you can.

Repair scenarios from typical Boca Raton homes

A townhome owner notices that the front door key has become hard to turn each summer, and easy again in winter. The cause is the wooden door and frame swelling in humid weather, pressing the bolt against the strike. The fix is adjusting the strike and easing the frame opening a little, not replacing the lock. The lock was fine all along, and a new one would have shown the same trouble.

A condo owner finds the back patio slider will not lock firmly. The latch hook is worn and the track is dirty. Cleaning the track, adjusting the latch and fitting a new hook solves it. A seasonal resident returns in the fall to find the garage entry door lock frozen with corrosion after months closed up. The cylinder is cleaned and found sound, and the owner is advised on maintenance for the next absence.

An older ranch home has a mortise lock that has been repaired many times. This time a spring has failed and the replacement part is no longer made. The technician explains that a modern replacement with a matching faceplate is the practical path. A small office has a back door deadbolt that spins in the door because the mounting screws have stripped the wood. The repair is a proper fix to the screw holes and longer screws into solid material. Each case is a different answer to the same question: what is actually wrong?

Simple maintenance that prevents repairs

A little care goes a long way. Twice a year, put a small amount of dry lock lubricant on the key and work it in and out of the lock a few times. Wipe the exterior hardware with a damp cloth to remove salt. Check handle and plate screws and tighten any that are loose. Watch how the door closes after a heavy rain and note any rubbing. If your key has started to feel rough, have a fresh one cut from the original before the old one wears further.

After a storm, check that every exterior lock still turns smoothly and every door still closes squarely. Wind and water can shift doors and hinges. Our guide to checking locks after a hurricane gives a short routine. Spending a few minutes on these checks can save you from an emergency call at an inconvenient time, and it helps you spot the early signs of wear while a repair is still a small job.

• Lubricate keys and cylinders with a dry lock lubricant twice a year.
• Wipe exterior hardware to remove salt film.
• Tighten handle, plate and hinge screws at the same time.
• Cut a fresh key from the original when the working copy wears.
• Check every exterior door after storms and heavy rain.

What to expect and how to prepare

A repair visit usually starts with a look at the door and a few questions about when the problem began. The technician tests the lock, watches the door close, and inspects the frame. They explain what they find and what the repair involves. Most repairs on a common lock are done in one visit. If a part must be ordered, the technician will tell you and may secure the door in the meantime so it is safe.

Pricing is explained by phone. Quotes are given only by phone, and complicated jobs, such as damaged doors, old mortise locks or electronics, may need an on-site visit before a final number is possible. There is a service call charge, and it is explained before anyone is dispatched. When you are ready, call and describe the lock, the symptom and how long it has been happening, and the dispatcher will explain what the visit involves.

Questions people ask

Related pages