The door people forget
Most owners think hard about the front door. The door from the garage into the house gets far less thought. It is often a plain interior grade door with a standard knob and no deadbolt, because the builder assumed the garage was a secure space. In reality, a garage can be entered in several ways. A remote left in a parked car, a keypad passcode that others know, a door that was left open for a delivery, or a garage door that did not close fully can all give access.
Once someone is in the garage, they are out of sight of the street, and they can take their time. The entry door is then the only thing between them and the house. If it has a weak lock, a thin frame and a short strike screw, it may open with little effort.
This is why the garage entry door deserves the same attention as a front door. It does not need to be fancy. It needs a solid deadbolt, a reinforced strike, a frame that will not split and a habit of keeping it locked.
What a good setup looks like
A good garage entry door is a solid core or metal door, hung on sturdy hinges, with a deadbolt that throws a full inch into a reinforced frame. The strike plate is screwed into the framing behind the door jamb with long screws, not only into the trim. The latch bolt on the knob or lever is fitted properly and cannot be pushed in with a thin tool.
A good setup also pays attention to the gap between the door and the frame. A wide gap makes it easier for someone to reach the latch. Weatherstripping that fits well reduces the gap and helps keep out humidity and pests. Hinges should have long screws that reach the framing, and the hinge pins should not be removable from outside.
None of these are expensive changes on their own, and a technician can often handle several at once. The strike plate reinforcement and deadbolt installation pages describe the work in detail.
- A deadbolt with a full length throw into a reinforced strike.
- Long screws in the strike and the hinges that reach the framing.
- A solid door in good condition, not a hollow door that has been damaged.
- A tight fit around the door, with good weatherstripping.
- A habit of locking it, even when you are at home.
Adding or upgrading a deadbolt
If your garage entry door has only a knob lock, adding a deadbolt is a common upgrade. A technician measures the door, drills a bore for the deadbolt, installs the lock and a matching strike, and tests it. Many people choose to key the new deadbolt to match their other locks, so one key works for the front, the back and the garage.
You can also choose a keyless option. A keypad deadbolt lets family members enter with a passcode, which is convenient for a door used many times a day, and it removes the need to carry a key. If you are weighing the two, the smart lock versus keypad versus key guide offers a comparison.
Before choosing, think about how the door is used. A garage door that leads to a laundry room and sees heavy traffic suits a lock that is easy to operate. A rarely used door may benefit from a simpler design. A technician can fit the choice to the household.
Fire rated garage doors and what that means
In many homes, the door between a garage and the living space is required to be a fire rated door, solid and self-closing. This requirement exists because garages store fuel, paint and vehicles, and a fire there should not spread easily. A fire rated door may have a label on the edge, and it may have a closer that pulls it shut.
If your door is fire rated, changing it or its hardware needs care. A hole drilled in the wrong place or a missing closer can affect how it performs. A technician should know what is allowed and can advise on lock changes that keep the door's role intact. If you are not sure whether your door is rated, check the label on the hinge edge, or ask the home's builder or inspector.
Also consider how people will leave. A door that is locked from the inside with a key is a hazard in a fire. A deadbolt with a thumb turn on the house side lets people exit quickly. See the fire safety and door locks guide for the principles.
Why the door sticks and what it means
A garage entry door that sticks is a common complaint, and the cause is often humidity. Garages are not always air conditioned. The door swells with moisture, and it rubs against the frame. The latch may stop lining up with the strike, and the deadbolt may drag.
Another cause is settling. The slab, the framing or the door itself may shift, and the gaps around the door change. A door that once swung freely may now brush the frame at one corner. Hinge screws can also loosen, letting the door sag.
Fixing a sticking door starts with finding where it rubs. A technician looks for marks on the edge, checks the hinges, adjusts the strike and tests the latch. If the problem is the door's fit, a carpenter may need to plane or adjust the door. If the lock is binding, the technician can fix or replace it. The garage side door sticks page covers the symptom in more detail.
Garage side doors to the outside
Some garages have a second door on the side, leading to the yard or the driveway. This side door is often neglected too. It may have a basic lock, a hollow door and a thin frame. In many homes, it is the least secure door in the house.
Treat a side door like any exterior door. Install a deadbolt and a reinforced strike, and check that the frame is solid. A window in or near the door is a weakness, since someone could break the glass and reach the lock. If there is glass, a double cylinder deadbolt, which needs a key on both sides, can help, but it creates an exit risk. A technician can explain the tradeoffs, and in many cases a single cylinder deadbolt with a security film or a reinforced glass panel is the better choice.
Consider lighting too. A motion activated light near the side door discourages casual tampering. It is not a lock, but it supports one.
Keypads, remotes and who has access
Garage openers add another layer of access. A remote clipped to a visor, a keypad passcode shared with a neighbor or a contractor, and a smartphone app can all open the garage door. Each of these is a path to the entry door.
Think about who has access and how often the passcode changes. If the keypad passcode is the same since you moved in, and many people have it, consider changing it. If a remote was lost, reprogram the opener. If you have a vehicle that stays parked outside with a remote inside, remove the remote when you leave the car.
A garage door opener is a separate system from the lock on the entry door, and this site does not cover opener repair. The point is to keep the entry door locked, so that if the garage is opened by mistake, the house still has a barrier.
Hinges, frames and the parts people overlook
A strong lock in a weak door still fails. Look at the hinge side as well as the lock side. Garage entry doors that open outward, which is uncommon but does occur, expose their hinge pins on the outside, and anyone can remove them. On a door that opens inward, the hinges sit on the inside, which is better. Either way, check that the hinge screws are long enough to reach the wall framing and that none are loose.
The frame, called the jamb, takes the force when a door is kicked. Many builders use thin pine jambs, and the strike screws bite only into that thin wood. When the door is struck, the jamb splits and the bolt slips out of the strike. A reinforced strike with three inch screws ties the jamb to the framing behind it, so the force spreads over a stronger structure. It is a small change that makes a large difference.
Check the door edge for gaps. If you can see daylight at the latch side or slide a card between door and frame, the fit is poor. Better weatherstripping and a properly adjusted strike close that gap. Also check the threshold. A worn threshold lets in water and insects, and a door that drags on it will not latch cleanly. A technician can assess each of these at the same visit and tell you which items matter most for your door.
Examples from typical calls
A homeowner in a Boca Raton neighborhood returns from a trip and finds the garage entry door standing slightly open. Nothing is missing, but the door is not latching. The technician finds that the strike has shifted and the door has dropped on its hinges. The hinges are tightened, the strike repositioned and a deadbolt added. The homeowner starts keeping the door locked.
A family in Delray Beach has a garage door that leads to a laundry room. The existing knob lock is loose, and the door sticks in the summer. The technician replaces the knob with a lever and a deadbolt, adjusts the strike and advises a carpenter on the swollen edge.
A landlord in Coconut Creek has a rental with a garage entry door that has been kicked in by a previous tenant. The frame is split. The technician advises that the frame be repaired and a reinforced strike installed. The page on door frame damage after forced entry describes what that repair involves.
Habits that make the door work for you
The best hardware does nothing if the door is left unlocked. Make it a habit to lock the garage entry door at night and when you leave, even if you are only going out for a short while. If you use the garage as the main entrance, keep the door locked behind you when you come in.
Check the door from time to time. Does the latch click shut? Does the deadbolt throw fully? Is the strike tight? Is the weatherstripping intact? A short check every few months catches small problems before they turn into failures.
Do not store keys in the garage. A spare key on a hook near the entry door is a convenience for someone who gets into the garage. Do not leave valuables visible through a garage window, and do not keep tools that could be used to force a door in an unlocked cabinet near the entry.
Quotes, service calls and what to prepare
Garage entry work is quoted by phone, after the technician hears what the door has and what you want. Describe the door material, the current lock, whether it is fire rated and whether it sticks. Complicated jobs may need an on-site look, and a service call charge applies for dispatch, which is explained on the phone before anyone is sent.
Take photos of the door from both sides, the lock, the strike and the frame. Note any label on the hinge edge. If you want the new lock keyed to match your existing keys, say so when you call.
If your garage entry door has a weak lock, no deadbolt or a latch that no longer catches, call and describe what is happening. The person on the phone can explain the options and what the visit would involve.
Questions people ask
Does the door from my garage to my house need a deadbolt?
It is a good idea. If someone gets into the garage, that door is the main barrier to the house, and a knob lock alone is weak. A deadbolt with a reinforced strike and long screws makes forced entry far harder. A technician can add one and key it to match your other locks.
My garage entry door sticks in summer. Is it the lock?
Often it is humidity swelling the door, or the door settling on loose hinges. The latch and strike then fall out of line. A technician checks where the door rubs, tightens the hinges and adjusts the strike. If the door edge needs planing, a carpenter may be needed.
Can I change the lock on a fire rated garage door?
Yes, but with care. Holes in the wrong place or a missing closer can affect how the door performs. Check for a label on the hinge edge, and tell the technician. They can advise on changes that keep the door's role. Make sure people can still leave quickly from the house side.
Should I use a keypad deadbolt on the garage entry?
It can suit a door used many times a day, since family members enter with a passcode and no key. Think about who knows the passcode and how often it changes. Some people prefer a keyed deadbolt for a rarely used door. A technician can help match the choice to your household.
What about the side door of the garage?
Treat it like any exterior door. Add a deadbolt and a reinforced strike, and check the frame. If there is glass near the lock, ask about options, since a double cylinder deadbolt can create an exit risk. Good lighting nearby also helps discourage tampering.
Is it safe to keep a spare key in the garage?
It is better not to. A spare key near the entry door is available to anyone who gets into the garage. Keep spares elsewhere, such as with a trusted neighbor or in a secure place inside the home. A lockbox with a combination you control is another option.
Describe the situation by phone and we will tell you what the job involves. Quotes are given by phone. Jobs that cannot be quoted without seeing them need a technician on site, and the service call charge is explained on the phone before anyone is dispatched.
(954) 906-9567Related pages
Closers, weatherstripping and the latch that does not catch
Many garage entry doors fail not because the lock is bad but because the door never closes all the way. A door closer that has gone slack, a bent hinge, or thick weatherstripping can leave the latch resting against the strike instead of sliding into it. The door looks shut, yet one firm shove opens it. To test this, close the door gently from inside and see whether the latch clicks. Then try the door from the garage side with the deadbolt open and watch how the bolt meets the opening. A mismatch of even a small distance is enough to cause trouble.
Garage doors also live in a different environment from the rest of the house. The room swings between cool air conditioning and the heat and humidity of a closed garage, so wood swells, metal expands, and finishes wear fast. Dust and grit from the floor and the cars blow into the lock and thicken any lubricant. A cylinder that sticks every few weeks may just need cleaning, while one that has been abused with the wrong oil may need servicing. Using a dry graphite or a light lock-specific product, not heavy oil, keeps the pins moving without gathering grime.
Look closely at the strike plate and the jamb behind it. Screws that have worked loose let the door rattle and weaken the whole assembly. If the wood is split or crumbling, a simple tightening will not hold, and the frame may need reinforcement. When you call, tell us whether the door closes by itself, whether it drags on the floor, and whether the latch or the deadbolt is the problem. We will explain the scope of the work and any quote before we begin, so you can plan the repair around your schedule.